Trailering Tips

from Gregory Geiger

(based on over 25 years of experience!)

You get a new boat and trailer or a new car, check on the following before you plan on moving the boat:

 1. Draw bar: correct for the receiver; through pin shows no signs of wear,  is correct size and there is a lock-pin

ball size: correct size for the trailer and tight on the draw bar.

length of draw bar different: will through holes match? ;

length of draw bar changes the lighting harness, making it too short.

 2. Correct lighting connector to match your trailer for the tow vehicle.

 3. Will trailer safety chains work with the new draw bar?

- Are they long enough and have enough slack to make tight trailer turns?

- Will the hooks connect to the receiver bar rings?

 4. Makes the tail gate or rear doors strike the trailer tongue, ladder or jack:

 5. I suggest that you install rear auxiliary lights on the out side edges receiver, it greatly assists when doing work at night.  But be sure to keep your vehicle running when those lights are turned on!

 After a winter lay-up for your trailer:

(Voice of experience: buy ONLY name brand tires that have national stores.  If you have a tire problem on the road, a chain of outlets can honor warrantees. Note the tire model number, call your local tire distributor, see if there is a replacement model issued.  Get the replacement!  I once purchased “the best” trailer tires, only to have both of them blow-out because they could not handle the load, highway speeds and heat.  The national tire company replaced them because they were under designed for the trailer use.)

 1. Tires: check for dry-rot, cracks on the sidewalls; is there good tread still on the tires;

            check tire pressure - most tires are set to 65 psi at max. load; you will need a tire gauge that reads that high, most passenger car tire gauges only go to 50 psi.

correct pressure is listed on the tire sidewall or the manufacturers’ plate;

spare tire pressure and are the hold-down bolts rusted on?  If you have a lock the tire the trailer, have a spare key hidden on the trailer.

2. Hubs:  pump grease into bearing buddies

open dust cap, check for water condensation

3. Wheels:  lugs tight

rims don’t show signs of curb strikes or dents

4. Axles:  grease if zerk fittings are found

5. Check entire trailer for signs of rust.  Special care at welds or bolted-on components.

Fenders secure, mud flaps on; tie down rings; poppet supports; spare tire holder; sail/spare parts boxes; ladder holders; gin pole brackets; winch and components in good shape.

6. Lights: globes all intact.  Hook to vehicle, check that all are working.  Replace lamps as needed.  Get spare lamps for the road.  Spray WD-40 into connector to keep free of corrosion.  If lights are dim, check the “ground” or you may need a more powerful flasher unit for the tow vehicle.  A light coating of grease over the ground connectors will keep them free of corrosion.  There should be harness connectors to the trailer every 18" to 24".

7. Trailer hitch:  WD-40 the hitch components - either the hand-wheel type or the lever type; spray under the hitch, there is a plate that holds the ball in place.

Make sure hydraulic fluid reservoir is full for surge brakes

Brake actuator looks to be in working order

8. Safety Chains: look solid with little or no rust; solidly attached to trailer (bolted on or welded)

Hooks to tow vehicle look solid

9. Trailer jack with wheel:

Wheel turns freely

No flat spots on the tire

If jack pivots, will pivot freely.  Spray with WD-40 as needed. 

10. Rear trailer jack.  If you don’t have one, buy one.  Or find an old one that will prevent the boat from tipping.  Once you experience a boat tipping, you will never forget to drop the aft jack again!  

11. License Plate: shows up to date registration (I make copies of the registration and keep one in the sail box, just in case.)

Bolts are tight                            

Before leaving for the yacht club or regatta:

   (these items should be placed at easy access when on the road)

- jack to change tires, be sure the handle needed to operate it is included

- blocks of wood to place under the jack, also to block trailer tires from rolling

- lug wrench (check to be sure it fits your trailer lugs!)

- before going a long distance I have the tires “spin-balanced” for improved tire wear

- extra line for use as tie-downs

- bring two rolls of duct tape and one roll of electrical tape

- tie-down straps in good condition

- keel cover on or deflector in place

- rudder cover on or movement guard in place

- spars tied down, pads in place to prevent hull damage

- bring two wrenches that can hold and tighten the ball and nut

- safety chains are taped to hold in place.  (I bring an extra 18" of chain with shackles, for emergencies)

- trailer registration

- have a spare car key made, attach it to the car in case you (your crew) lock the keys in the car.

- make sure your name, boat name or hull number are on anything attached to your trailer.

 

Q: Why are safety chains crossed when attaching to the tow vehicle?

A: So if the trailer comes off the vehicle, the chains will help to keep the hitch off the road surface. 

Proper Tongue Weight:

If you have purchased a tow vehicle that can handle your class of sailboat, then you will know what the correct tongue weight should be.  The rule of thumb is 10% - 15% of the total loaded trailer weight.  If the tongue weight is too light for the load, the trailer will “fish-tale” at highway speeds.  Too heavy, you can damage the tow vehicles’ suspension system.

A longer vehicle wheelbase gives better control in “panic braking” situations. 

 Tips:    - KNOW how much clearance your rig needs to go under bridges, gas station islands, etc.

- to prevent the tie-down straps from fluttering in the wind, put a twist in the strap.

- use duct tape to tape closed the web strap handles.

- cover both ends of the mast with old sail bags.

- mark with electrical tape or a permanent  marker the location of the keel tip.  I have two marks,    one for highway towing that gives me the proper tongue weight and a mark for the keel tip to make    moving the boat in the parking lot easier, it happens when there is almost no tongue weight.     

- going a long distance, put straps around the keel to prevent any boat creeping forward or aft

- tighten the ball to the draw bar, again.  Every time you move your boat!

- use a screwdriver to tighten down the screw type hitch.  I pin mine for very long distances.

- use duct tape over anything that is tied to the trailer, this prevents the lines from working lose.

- tandem trailers turn tighter than single axle trailers, or seem to anyway.  Leave lots of turning    space when you are in tight areas and when making right hand turns.

- tandem trailers at the YC for long periods, remove the forward set of tires, this really improves       moving the boat around the parking lot.

- to prevent diesel soot from sticking to the hull, cover the boat in dish washing soap.

The 1-10-100 Law - states that you will stop at these miles to inspect your trailer when moving your boat.

When you first start down the road, stopping after one mile will allow you to make sure the hitch is tight (wheel type hitches can work lose), the tie-down straps are still tight, safety chains still in place; the surge brake safety wire is still in place; light harness connected and everything looks proper. 

At the ten mile stop to inspect, you can place your hand on the wheel hubs, are they cool or just warm to the touch?  If you can’t keep your hand on the hub, your bearings are way too hot!

At the one hundred mile stop, go all over the trailer, tires and straps.  Again.     

En Route:

When you stop for gas, etc., check the boat on the trailer.  Look for wear on the tie-down straps, “hold down loops” on the trailer, boat movement (this is easiest seen in the keel shoe, at the mark you put on); tires: road damage or sidewall bubbles; hubs are still “not hot” to the touch; spars still securely tied down; safety chains in place; and light harness is still connected.

Remember as you leave the gas station, there is a mast that is sticking out from behind the boat and  in tight confines can come in contact with poles or support columns.  A mast strike that causes damage to your spare is not a good way to start the regatta, it can also be expensive if the insurance company denies your claim.

Upon Arrival:

- loosen the tie-down straps (this take the pressure off the hull)

- upon being directed where to park and rig:

-be SURE there are NO POWER LINES CLOSE BY!!!

- lower all the vehicle windows so you can hear directions from someone outside the vehicle

-that means turning off the radio

- chocks under the trailer tires

- lower the aft trailer jack

- if your tow vehicle rear doors will strike the front trailer jack, uncouple the trailer.

- if you have to use a light harness adapter, be sure to put it in a place you can find it when you leave.  Tell one of your crew where you put it.

- establish a location to leave the car keys out of site from the public, be sure that your crew knows this location and another person from another boat, just in case.                         

- keep all the tie-down straps and lines, mast supports, covers, etc. in one location